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Tuscany
| Florence
| Siena
For further information and
reservations, call 01450 374471 or any of the Worldchoice
agencies listed below
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a rural delight
Accommodation in the Tuscan countryside is mostly
in self-catering villas or apartments, often near a farm or
vineyard. The green rolling hills provide a perfect setting
for a relaxing holiday. The “Agroturismo” programme,
funded in part by the EU, has stimulated considerable investment
and the general standard of the holiday properties completed
under this programme is very high.
We stayed in a beautifully restored farmhouse and barn, near
the town of San Gimignano. The six apartments are split-level
and slept between 2 and 10. Bright and clean, each has a private
entrance and is very well furnished. There is a lounge and
a fully equipped kitchen; each bedroom had its own bathroom.
There is a terrace and pool, with stunning views over the
hills with the towers of San Gimignano on the skyline.
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There is a restaurant within walking distance,
but Graham Mitchell recommends the Ristorante Latini further
down the road towards Certaldo (Tel 0577945019). The nearest
shops are in San Gimignano, about 3 miles away. A car is essential
for this type of holiday, and is usually included in the holiday
cost. Self-drive from the airport is the order of the day;
San Gimignano is about an hour’s drive from Pisa. Once
you leave the motorway you are into a maze of country roads,
but thankfully the tour operator provided very detailed directions
and in the end we found our apartment quite easily.
San Gimignano
Having
a car allows you to explore the region and visit some of the historic towns and
cities. San Gimignano is the best preserved of the traditional fortified hill
towns, and is recognised by the UN as a World Heritage Site. The town is beseiged
by tourists in the summer
months, so it's best to leave your visit until
the early evening when most of the day trippers have gone. San Gimignano is a
visual delight and also boasts one of the best Trattoria in the whole of Italy
- "Chiribiri". The food's great and the prices reasonable. Pre-booking
is essential on 00 39 577 941948. Some UK patrons pre-book before leaving home!
Closed Wednesdays; credit cards not accepted.
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View from the apartment |
at
the heart of the Renaissance The cities of Florence
and Siena engaged in bloody strife for primacy over the region until the Florentines
finally overcame their rivals after a siege in 1548. Florence enjoyed sustained
economic and cultural growth to become the great city it is today, while Siena
suffered years of repression - which brought unforseen benefits centuries later.
In Florence the frantic pace of city life ebbs and flows around the palaces, squares
and ancient churches; and the stylish modernity of Prada and Gucci rubs shoulders
with the splendours of the renaissance. It's a vibrant and exciting city, but
always welcoming, and easy to get around.
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Visiting
for the day:
If arriving by car you will find driving is at breakneck speed
with no quarter given. There are car parks below the main railway station, Santa
Maria Novella (or SMN); and also at the Piazzale Michelangelo on the hill south
of the river - 15-20 minutes walk from the Ponte Vecchio with great views on the
way down. Alternatively you can take the No.13 Bus! When planning your visit it's
worth remembering that
many galleries and museums are closed on Mondays.
Where to Stay in Florence
We have a favourite small hotel very well situated in ancient
streets near the Ponte Vecchio. This hotel is in a rebuilt
13th.Century tower, modern and comfortable inside, with a
rooftop terrace. Of the many other hotels The Grand Baglioni
offers great comfort in the grand manner and is conveniently
situated not far from the station. The Helvetia and Bristol
is a luxury hotel built in the late 1800's and now beautifully
restored with period furnishings - but with jacuzzi, air conditioning
and satellite TV in the guest bedrooms! If you enjoy good
modern design, the stylish and elegant Gallery Hotel Art was
designed by one of Italy's leading architects.
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Florence, Il Duomo - from
a water colour by Michele Fasciano |
| | Sightseeing
All the main attractions are within walking distance of each other and the main
railway station.
The Duomo with its Campanile and Baptistry are at the
very heart of Florence. The bronze East Doors of the Baptistry, with biblical
scenes by Ghiberti, are among the major works of the Renaissance. The Uffizi Gallery
and its world-famous paintings and sculpture is a must for those with an interest
in art. The best way round the Gallery is on an interpretative tour. It's essential
to pre-book entry to the Uffizi as numbers are strictly controlled; unbooked visitors
can queue for hours. Book on-line at http://www.arca.net/uffizi/index1.htm
or any of the many websites dedicated to the Uffizi. |
Michalangelo's
sculpture of David dominates The Galleria Accademia, while the gallery in the
Bargello has many works by Michelangelo and Donatello. At the church of Santa
Maria del Carmine there are the famous frescos of Masolino and Masaccio and magnificent
ceilings. On the South side of the river, in Oltrarno, the Pitti Palace (former
residence of the Medici) has a number of galleries, strong in Raphael's rich,
emotive paintings.
Above the Pitti Palace, the Boboli
Gardens range up the hillside, with classical sculptures and a
lake with
ornate fountains. Further to the East, a steep
ascent to the church of San
Miniato del Monte brings double reward - The magnificent facade of the church |
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The Uffizi Gallery: Botticelli's Primavera |
and
a fine view over Florence from the terrace. The Piazzale Michelangelo, on the
hillside below, also offers superb views. This large open space is dotted with
copies of Michelangelo's sculpture. Its balcony is a favourite with artists trying
to capture the beautiful vista spread before them - with varying degrees of success!
When to visit Florence
In mid-Summer it's too hot to make the most of the city's attractions; late Spring
and Autumn are good times to visit. Whenever you go, Florence will reward the
time you spent there!
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A Time Capsule
During the late 13th and early 14th Centuries,
Siena enjoyed great prosperity and growth. Most of the fine buildings built during
that time survive, although of necessity many have been restored or rebuilt.
In
1348 Siena was struck by The Plague, which killed over 30% of the population.
This disaster brought severe decline. All building work came to a halt; a nave
was being added to the Duomo, which remains unfinished to this day. Worse was
to come. Following its conquest by the Florentines in 1548, Siena endured a traumatic
period of repression. All new building was forbidden. The result is that Siena
looks today much as it did in medieval times. Built around a hilltop, the city
has many levels and steep streets. The ancient houses and palaces cluster round
the Duomo and the unique main "square", the Piazza del Campo or simply
"Il Campo". |
Il
Campo
The spectacular arena in front of the Palazzo Publico
is semi-circular and slopes like a dish towards the main entrance of the Palazzo.
Il Campo is the social hub of the city but also a magnet for tourists. The best
time of day is early evening, when the sun paints the facade of the Palazzo gold,
the tourists have subsided and the people of Siena step out in style for their
evening promenade. |
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Palio
The flat area around the circumference of Il Campo serves as
a racetrack on the 2nd of July and 16th of August every year, when the fearsome
Palio horseraces take place. The horses are run in the colours of the various
contrada or districts, and there is a tremendous amount of pageantry before
and after the races.
Shopping
The smartest shops
are in the streets near Il Campo, majoring in fashion and quality leather goods.
Prices are a little higher than the out-of-town factory outlets but there is a
terrific choice.
Eating Out
Prices are high at
tables overlooking Il Campo, although few can resist sitting with at least a coffee
and admiring the view. Away from the Piazza, the attractive Ristorante Due Arci
in the Pian de Mantellini has a good menu at fair prices and is popular with the
locals. Booking recommended on 0577 42277. |
Essential
Siena
In a sense present day Siena has benefitted from the dreadful
events of medieval times. The misfortunes of plague and repression prevented change,
and the fabric of the city remains much as it was in the 15th.Century. Siena has
become an essential part of the Tuscany experience - don't miss it!
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