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| San Francisco | Yosemite National Park | Lone Pine | Death Valley | Las Vegas |
| The Grand Canyon | Joshua National Park | The California Coast | Hearst Castle
| The Big Sur | Carmel and Monterey | Car Hire and Driving |
SAN FRANCISCO
A beautiful city! Cable cars, Fisherman's Wharf, Alcatraz, Museums and Art Galleries, shopping, sailing on the bay. We stayed downtown at The Commodore Hotel - 2 *- OK for a budget hotel, but some might prefer a 3- or 4-Star. We also stayed across the bay in Sausalito, at The Gables Inn , a very comfortable up-market B&B. Continental Breakfast is included, and in the evening guests can enjoy a complimentary glass of wine. Sausalito is at the Northern end of the Golden Gate Bridge - 30 mins from downtown San Francisco by car or by ferry. The ferry comes in at Pier 39, conveniently near the cable car terminus, so you can stay in Sausalito and visit the city centre without the hassle of driving in and parking. Multi-trip tickets are available which are valid on the cable cars, the buses, and the "Muni" underground rail system.
Wine buffs will not want to miss a trip to the Napa or Sonoma Valleys, to the north of San Francisco. Many of the wineries run tours and offer wine tastings (mostly at a charge). The wines sold direct are often limited in production and are sold at a premium, so do not expect too many bargains! Moet Chandon offers a well organised and informative tour of their impressive facility in the Napa Valley, where California champagnes are produced alongside the more traditional French style.
SAN FRANCISCO to YOSEMITE - about 4 hour's drive via the busy 580, 205 and 99 to Merced then the quieter 140, the 49 and the 41 to Fish Camp.
YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK
One of America's national treasures, with amazing scenery - towering cliffs, waterfalls, forests and lakes. We stayed at The Appletree Inn at Fish Camp - recommended!. The Inn is just 30 min. from the Mariposa Redwood Grove and 1hr from Yosemite Valley Village. Walking is the major activity in Yosemite, be it a half mile stroll through the redwood forest or a 40 mile hike in the mountains. But look out for the bears! Bikes and canoes are also for hire. The Valley Village information centre is the best starting off point, close to the cliffs of El Capitan and the Half Dome. About an hour to the East, up in the mountains, Tenaya Lake and the Tuolumne Meadows lie next to the road leading to the Tioga Pass. Drive on eastwards through the pass towards Mono Lake, for some fantastic views. Awesome! (The Tioga Pass is often closed in winter due to snow.)
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Yosemite - Lake Tenaya |
Drive from MONO LAKE to LONE PINE - about 150 miles on the uncrowded 395
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LONE PINE
A one-street, one-horse town between Yosemite and Death Valley National Parks. Many "Westerns" are filmed in the surrounding hills. We stayed at The Dow Villa Motel - John Wayne slept in room 20 - clean and comfortable - recommended. The rooms in the motel block have private bathroom.
LONE PINE to DEATH VALLEY - about 80 miles to the Western boundary of the National Park via 395 and 190
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Death Valley: The View from Zabriskie Point |
The story of Death Valley and the '49ers is enshrined in American folklore. Seeking a shortcut to the West in 1849, the '49ers found themselves, their wagons and horses in one of the hottest, most inhospitable places on earth. Unable to find a route out of the valley, and after dreadful suffering, they burnt their wagons and escaped on foot, two of the party and all of the horses having succumbed to the heat. The lowest point in the valley is at Badwater, some 300 ft. below sea level. We drove through the Park from West to East, taking in Zabriskie Point and Dante's View, both of which give stunning views over the valley.
Later in the 19th.century, Borax was mined under hellish conditions. You can drive the dirt road through Twenty Mule Team Canyon, which gives a vivid impression of the difficulty of hauling the borax out by mule drawn wagon. Today's road through the park is smooth and safe but the heat can still be a dangerous enemy to man and machine, especially in summer. Other sights worth seeing if time allows include Scotty's Castle and the Ubehebe Crater. There are visitor centres, gas stations and accommodations at Panamint Springs and Furnace Creek; prices are high in the Park.
Drive from DEATH VALLEY to LAS VEGAS - about 160 miles from the Eastern boundary of the Park, on the 190, the 373 and the 95.
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LAS VEGAS
Driving through the desert in the early evening, you suddenly come upon the astonishing sight of Las Vegas, ablaze with light and colour . Even if you don't go for the gambling and the nightlife, it's worth visiting just for the glamour and the glitz. It's best to stay on "The Strip". We stayed inexpensively at The Luxor, an amazing black glass pyramid themed on ancient Egypt. At night a beam of blue light blazes vertically from its tip. The less expensive rooms are in a tower block next to the pyramid but even these are luxurious. The top hotel in Las Vegas is presently Bellagio's but Mandalay is vying for the crown. These two are in a higher price bracket. The excellent Venetian has a canal with gondolas. The least attractive place we saw was Excalibur - cheap, tacky and overcrowded. Eating out is generally good value. World-class shows run year-round, although tickets can be pricey. Some of the best shows in town are free - don't miss the magical fountains outside Bellagio's, the pirate show at Treasure Island, the volcano which erupts every 15 minutes at Mirage, or the circus at Circus Circus. THE GRAND CANYON
Flights over the canyon are available from Las Vegas North airport and cost from $100 including collection from your hotel. The 30-seat aircraft gives a grandstand view of the towering cliffs and the Colorado River. Most trips also pass over Lake Mead and the Hoover Dam. The Grand Canyon attracts some 5 million visitors annually and environmental concerns mean that unlimited access by car will cease during 2002, when a drivers will have to park and take a monorail ride from Tusayan to Grand Canyon Village. There are free LPG powered shuttle buses running along the West Rim during the Summer.
LAS VEGAS to TWENTY-NINE PALMS - half a day's driving via the 15, the 247 and the 62
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JOSHUA NATIONAL PARK
Home of the famous Joshua Trees this park lies a little to the South of a line between Las Vegas and Los Angeles. Less harsh than Death Valley, there are many easy walks just off the park roads. There are huge boulders, coyotes and abandoned gold mines. We stayed at the charming Twenty-Nine Palms Inn at the northern edge of the park. This Inn was built in the 1930's and has not changed so very much since! Accommodation is in individual adobe villas. There is a tempting pool at the main building and an excellent restaurant, inexpensive but one of the best.
TWENTY-NINE PALMS to SANTA BARBARA - half a day's drive on busy roads, especially near Los Angeles, which should be given as wide a berth as possible, especially at rush-hour.
SANTA BARBARA
On the coast north of Los Angeles, this large university town has a Riviera feel to it, with a broad, palm-lined sea front boulevard. The streets and avenues behind the front offer some interesting shopping. We stayed at the Franciscan Inn which offers large and comfortable suites with or without kitchen. Guest facilities include swimming pool, hot tub and a laundry.
CAMBRIA and SAN SIMEON
Cambria is a charming village just off Highway One, with interesting shops and a few guest houses. San Simeon on the other hand had little to offer bar a few charmless motels.
HEARST CASTLE
William Randolph Hearst was a newspaper magnate and although his fortunes waxed and waned, at times he could claim to be one of the richest men in the world. He was also one of the most hospitable and to entertain(and impress) his friends he built Hearst Castle, high in the hills overlooking San Simeon. An eclectic feast of architectural styles, it includes a bell tower with an 18-bell carillon. William Randolph's favourite tune ringing out over the hills and valleys was "Yes, we have no Bananas!" The many buildings which make up the castle are linked by beautiful landscaped gardens. An amazing sight is the huge subterranean Roman-style swimming baths. His many guests included film stars such as Charlie Chaplin, Errol Flynn and Cary Grant, also world leaders such as Winston Churchill. Hearst Castle is now owned and run by the U.S. National Parks Service, and the only way to visit the castle is on one of their excellent and informative tours, which start at a reception centre next to the coast road. The weather can be considerably cooler up at the castle than at sea level, especially in the winter months, so take a sweater or a jacket.
BIG SUR
Highway One is the most scenic route from Los Angeles to San Francisco. Driving North from Hearst Castle the road is cut into the cliffs with spectacular views down to the ocean hundreds of feet below. This stretch is known as the Big Sur. There are many viewing points along the way and also a few inns and restaurants where the prices are almost as high as the cliffs.
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CARMEL and MONTEREY
If Carmel is one of the most famous resorts on the West Coast, it certainly has the most famous mayor, one Clint Eastwood. Immaculate, tree-lined streets slope down to the sea. The expensive shops thrive; but all is not lost because Carmel also offers a Safeways supermarket! The Mission de San Carlos de Borromeo de Carmelo was founded in the late 18th.Century and has been beautifully restored.
The Highland Inn is set on cliffs overlooking the sea, both public rooms and guest suites offering stunning views over the ocean. La Playa Grande has very attractive guest rooms while The Candlelight Inn is very central and offers accommodation in charming individual "gingerbread" houses.
The famous "17-Mile Drive" (now a toll road) winds through the woods above the sea, then along the shore towards Pebble Beach. This is THE place to have a home and on either side you can admire the multi-million dollar mansions of rich and famous, each larger than the last. Down by the shore, sea-lions have colonised a rock and hundreds bask in the sun. Sea-otters are resurgent on the California coast and with luck you will spot one playing in the surf.
Monterey is about Cannery Row, John Steinbeck, and the Monterey Aquarium. The latter is a world-class facility and well worth a visit. Adult Entrance is $17, half price for children; tickets bought in advance (call 800-756-3737) get you straight in without queuing, a good idea because it can be very busy, especially during the summer and at weekends.
PARAJO DUNES
We took a 4-night break from travelling at the Parajo Dunes Condominiums, some 25 miles north of Monterrey. These quality beach houses are clustered on an isolated part of the coast to the north of Monterey. The road to Parajo Dunes is not particularily scenic as you pass through vast industrial scale fruit and vegetable farms, but once you arrive the immediate area is attractive enough. There is a fine stretch of beach and an estuary teeming with birdlife. Dolphins and pelicans enliven the view out to sea. The units nearest the entrance are the best positioned. There is a first-class tennis facility.
GILROY
Drive due East from Watsonville on the scenic route 152 brings you through the wineries of the Hecker Pass to the town of Gilroy, which has excellent shopping malls with factory outlets for top brand names.
GILROY to SAN FRANCISCO
A two hour drive on the 101, the 85 and then the 101 again for San Francisco International Airport, or the 280 for downtown.
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CAR HIRE and DRIVING
Distances between the various sights and locations are much longer then we are used to - this is a truly vast country - so a large car is best. We had a seven seater minivan (Pontiac Montana) for 4 adults plus luggage. It was very comfortable, fast enough and not unwieldy. Petrol was the equivalent of £1.20 per imperial gallon!
Road signs are organised differently from our own. Signs over an Interstate show the name of towns you can reach by turning off the motorway, plus the distance to the junction where you turn off, rather different from the European system of showing the ultimate destination of road you are actually on. In town, the street signs show the name of the cross-street where we would expect to see the name of the street we are travelling down. Confusing? You bet! But you get used to it!
If you are a member of the AA or RAC you can extend this to include the American Automobile Association (known as the Triple-A) which can give discounts at some accommodations and attractions as well as general assistance if required.
CLIMATE
We travelled in November and enjoyed good weather, with only a few day's rain on the coast near San Francisco. The further south and further inland we travelled, the warmer it became. In summer the desert areas are very hot; at the coast the weather too is warmer, but there are frequent fogs when cold seas from the depths of the Pacific meet the warm land. Smog is a major problem in Los Angeles, not so much in San Francisco; away from the cities Southern California's air is clean and the climate warm and sunny.
READING
We recommend "The Lonely Planet Guide to California and Nevada" (IBSN 0 - 86442 - 644 - 5)(£12.99) which gives a great deal of very detailed information and advice, and is essential reading for anyone planning a trip.
Hendersons Travel holds a certain amount of information, maps etc which are available on loan to clients planning a trip.
GETTING THERE
Flights, car hire and accommodation can be booked at highly competitive rates through any branch of the Hendersons Travel Group.
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